The Gaspésie road

Aaaah the Gaspésie road, where the road trip in van really started.

Every good Quebec has done it at least once in his life!

It is the coast of the province of Quebec which begins in the mouth of the Saint Lawrence to end at the edge of the Atlantic. The "Navigator Route", as it is called, runs along the river and the ocean on 885km without ever moving away from it and is therefore one of the main summer destinations.

She goes through a lot of small villages all more beautiful than each other and we come across many lighthouses. The road makes a loop that can be done either by the South or by the North from the intersection at Rivière-du-Loup.

For our part we made it by the North to then be able to continue our Road Trip to New Brunswick but if you have the choice, we advise you to do it by the South, simply to be on the good side of the road ( more convenient and better view).

National Geographic classified this scenic route as one of the 20 most beautiful destinations in the world. So convinced? We take you!

Some people will tell you that it's not really the Gaspésie because this little village is located a few kilometers before the intersection of Wolf Riverbut we necessarily go there to join the Gaspésie so much so stop! Especially since it is a first step very soothing which gives a little glimpse of the tranquility that prevails at Eastern Quebec. The gardens are green and perfectly maintained. The small wooden houses are all more beautiful than the others and have a breathtaking view of the river Saint Laurent. The whole village is in harmony and the multitude of small Bed and Breakfast says a lot about this very popular stage. A walk along the water and on the pontoon is needed here!

We stayed at campsite Batture SEBKA a few kilometers further which offers very nice and wild places at the river's edge. We are very far from the concrete campsite with lots of large RVs (understand Camping Car for our European compatriots 🙂). It must be said that we were at the very beginning of our North American Road Trip, the Westfalia was not really equipped yet ... We had recovered only two days before and we still missed a lot of small things to be completely autonomous!

In addition, there are some very pleasant hiking trails which make it possible to take height and to better realize the width of the river. From here you can still see the bank opposite and it will not be the case further, to tell you ...

Wild animals, breathtaking views, natural coves, desert beaches and scenery guaranteed in this beautiful little park! Despite a rather gloomy weather that day, we equip ourselves with our most beautiful waterproof jackets story to be a little dry to explore the corners of the site. We could observe seals, the emblem of the Park, meet a doe and his little at the bend of a path, and even did a bit of hiking with foxes Too cute, before they stop on the beach to take a nap. In total, we made 20km walk in the day through a multitude of landscapes and for our greatest pleasure. We let you appreciate in image.

Located inland, you have to make a small detour to get there but according to us It's really worth it ! It was discovered thanks to the tourist booklet on the Gaspésie available at the tourist offices along the route. The site is private and there is a small campsite that we have not tested (we arrived so late on the spot, the fault to Popo who made us the blow of the failure ...), that we had to sleep near the entrance a bit torn ...

In short we were there at dawn for the opening and we were lucky enough toexplore the canyon without a single tourist ... the dream!

The site has among others several points of interest: beautiful falls, the highest suspension bridge in Quebec (63m high and 99m long), and a mine ofinformation about the history of the Drava : workers coming down the woods on the river for nearly 100km, not at all dangerous!

In short, it is so much Canada let them talk to you about it The Ballad goes down along the Rimouski River, we start walking by a footbridge that overlooks the fall of Grand Falls and its 20 meters high. Then we continue along the river until suspension bridge. Ouch, it's high! Well, it looks very solid so we venture into it without risk 🙂

Further we are faced with 300 steps of stairs who go down (phew saved) along a waterfall. Yes, but then you have to go back ... But it's worth it, the very narrow fall / descent is very beautiful.

Finally we were able to discover the history of "Drave" through stories and pictures presented outdoors. A job now gone and thankfully somewhere because it was almost crazy to go down the rapids on pieces of wood to sell 100km further down ...

It's a bit like the flagship stop (beware of the pun 🙂), and for good reason it's the first thing you see from afar when arriving in the locality. A big white and red lighthouse very slender with his foot the Empress of Ireland Museum telling the story of the boat of the same name that sank not far from there. We also visited the HMCS Onondaga, a submarine, a first for us and we realize the hard life that must have submariners who spend several months under water. Each place is visited and there are formulas for the whole, we can even sleep in the submarine! We did not have the opportunity to test but it must be fun!

What to say about this Safe Haven, of this break outside time ... A happiness for the senses, color everywhere, intoxicating perfumes, a stop not to be missed both the scenography is well thought out. These English gardens are simply beautiful. And what about the original home perfectly restored, we believe it. Each year takes place in an adjacent space a garden festival which features the vision of twenty or so architects, landscape architects and other designers. For us who are architects and sensitive to contemporary art, we find this mix between traditional and modern gardens very successful.

If, like us, you want to see Black Bears and Moose for sure, that's where you have to go. Well the reserve is worth, there again it is necessary to leave the main road to return in the lands through the forest and on an earth track. It's fun to meet the big American trucks loaded with wood trunks (but be careful though they drive like crazy), that's also Canada !

At the entrance to the park we stop at the visitor center to reserve a location and plan an outing to see the bears. Once there we follow a guide through the forest to a small plain where bears come to feed every night. And yes not stupid beast, it must be said that the Rangers prepare some treats to attract them. In the evening we camped by the lake, the place is very nice and relaxing, there is no noise except the crackling fire. We even had a night ballet of fireflies ! Magical !

In love with hikes, Hello ! We spent 2 days here surveying a whole series of trails that lead to different summits. The panoramas are exceptional and the wildlife abundant. We could cross five moose at the end of the day on one of the many hikes. A mother and her baby even came so close to us that we could almost touch them (not to try). A unique moment engraved in our memories forever. They were quietly eating the ferns while advancing to our position, we did not even need to use the camera zoom ...

We also retain the sunset at the top of the Mount Ernest-Laforce on which we find written a very beautiful quote (view the photo).

The second day we went to another part of the Park. The trails pass by lakes and climb through the forest to the summit which again offers an incredible view and still different from what we saw the day before. The scenery are decidedly very varied in the peninsula of Gaspésie.

Lighthouses always lighthouses! And yes, if there is one thing that can not be missed even by doing it on purpose the sublime lighthouses of Gaspésie. It must be said that there are many and they are all maintained with passion by individuals or associations. They are part of historical patrimony and it is not allowed to go around the peninsula without climbing the steps of at least one of them! The view of the coast is exceptional. Each lighthouse has its particularity: construction in wood, metal, concrete and especially its history, and there are some to tell ... The tours are all guided is to learn more, especially about the lives of guards. Really exciting and we appreciated the fact that they are all functional. We tell you more soon in an article specifically dedicated to the Gaspésie lighthouses. For our part we slept at the foot of each of them and we mostly remember our evening at the foot of lighthouse of the Martre with an exceptional sunset and as a bonus the breath of some whales right in the axis! Magical !

No luck for us that day, there is a haze sometimes so thick that it is difficult to see the tip of our nose ... What's the matter, the few bright spots still encourages us to put on our shoes. hike and go on an adventure! The National Park is this time again at the edge of the ocean. The coast is particularly beautiful here. The immense cliffs come to throw themselves in the Atlantic, different species of birds nest in the asperities. The show that offers here nature is grandiose. The mist finally brings a very mysterious side. We climb once again at the top of the highest peak of the Park and surprise, there is a wooden tower that allows to have a 360 ° view above the trees. Further the trail joins again the coast on the other side of the peninsula and we make a unexpected encounter with ... a black bear! For the record, we walked quietly looking a few meters in front of us and at the edge of the forest stands in front of us a big black spot ... It took us a little second to realize that it was not a big dog but a young black bear. Stop, we freeze a few moments and slowly we go back without ever leaving the eyes of the animal, before taking a few shots more safely. Well this one did not seem too surprised to see us and continued his way quietly. In any case, it's weird to find each other 2 meters from a wild bear for us French ...

We will continue our walk to the lighthouse (and yes we told you, there is still a lighthouse not far away), to finally see nothing but the latter so the mist was thick.

Well, we'll come back, but with the sun this time!

We tell you more soon in the article dedicated to this Park.

The "capital" of Gaspésie has among others a beautiful museum which dominates the ocean. The place is very nice and exhibitions have allowed us to learn more about the region through photos and stories. If you are a time is not attracted by the history of the region that you visit, it is a step not to be missed.

What strikes when arriving here is this pierced rock, an almost perfect hole in a huge rock, in the middle of the oceanbut it's not the only local attraction.

From the small town of Perçé you can also reach National Park (SEPAQ networks) of the Island of Bonaventure. So we took a boat that, after a passage close to the famous rock and a tour of the island, we deposited on the latter. By going around we quickly realize that we are during the breeding season, there are more than 100,000 birds (Gannets) on this little piece of land! We could also see a lot of seals.

On places, several trails are more or less around the island. Well, we had the longest to discover all the facets of the place ... Yes, enjoy it!

Before leaving for the mainland, while waiting for the ferry, we had the pleasant surprise of see some whales to get out of the water a few dozen meters from the shore, a beautiful show!

Hum, it feels the end of the course ... and yes already, well it must be said that we tried (we say well tried ...), summary 885km in 12 stepsis saying a lot. So here we are Bonaventure (not to be confused with the island of the same name), and what is the bottom? ... A lighthouse, it's good there are some that follow at the bottom 🙂

Truce of joking, except that the small village is known for its friendly zoo where we find among other things all the wild species of the region. We also spent an afternoon with us swim in the Bonaventure River just north of the city, which wants to be one of the clearest in the country.

A little further the village of Carleton we booked a few taste surprises. We were tempted by a coffee at the «Brulerie du Quai», settled comfortably on the terrace and even the sun was in the game. Roasted coffee on the spot please, accompanied by an excellent artisanal chocolate. Not far away is the microbrewery "The Wrecker" which offers among other things tasting platters with a selection of craft beers. Ouch, as much to tell you that there is something for everyone. To finish we take the height since the viewpoint of Mont-Saint-Joseph from where we can see the rest of our Road Trip, the New Brunswick region, But that's another story…

See also soon our article on the 5 most beautiful lighthouses in Gaspésie : The lighthouse of Martre, Pointe-à-la-Renomée, Cap des Rosiers, Cap Gaspé (Forillon National Park) and Bonaventure.

The prices and information announced are given as an indication, in fact those can change at any time so be sure to check with official sites before leaving (we put you links for ease).

Need more information ? Leave a comment or contact us